Today, the iconic red tram is still running—albeit with modern, smooth-riding 100-person cars—and serving 2,500 acres of inbounds skiing. Jackson is a serious skier’s proving ground with plentiful steep, technical terrain, while new ski lifts, expanded grooming, and cultivated gentle slopes open up the resort to families, beginners and intermediates.

First-timers should know that half the mountain is rated most difficult, 40 percent is advanced or intermediate (and these are blues by Jackson standards), and only 10 percent is beginner terrain. A true exploration of the exhilarating steeps, rocky terrain and chutes that Jackson Hole is famous for is best suited for advanced and expert skiers. For this group, the biggest challenge when visiting the Tetons for the first time is planning around the 4,139 feet of vertical drop to stave off premature quadriceps failures.

Intermediates and beginners looking to push their skiing or snowboarding skills can still find a solid offering of welcoming terrain and strong instruction, and with some of the lower 48’s most spectacular scenery and wildlife watching, Jackson delivers a beautiful Wyoming getaway—on and off the mountain.

The aerial tram makes its 4,139-foot ascent to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain about every 15 minutes. From the top, expert skiers can descend the full vertical drop in one lap or peel off midway to upper mountain lifts.

Culturally and athletically, taking the tram is the quintessential Jackson Hole experience—from waiting in line and cramming into the box (local lingo), to the music (maybe AC/DC, maybe jam bands—it’s up to your tram operator, and they don’t take requests) to the unforgettable experience of spilling out of the doors high in the alpine, with more than 4,000 feet of big mountain skiing to the valley floor.

The two main ways off the summit are skiing Rendezvous Bowl or Corbet’s Couloir (which you can peek into from the bowl without committing to the drop). The bowl has no terrain features or hidden surprises: if you can ski about 800 feet of sustained, moderately steep, ungroomed terrain, you can make it to the bottom, where a variety of descents and groomed runs are accessible.

The tram ride isn’t a full commitment: you can change your mind at the top and ride back down. That means it’s also a great opportunity for intermediates and beginners to experience the summit, meet up with stronger skiers in their group, enjoy 360-degree views of the Tetons, get cozy with waffles and hot chocolate in Corbet’s Cabin, and then take the box back to friendlier terrain.

The once remote Wyoming ranching town offers fantastic dining, nightlife and art events, high-end accommodations, sophisticated bakeries and coffee shops, and iconic, local favorite ski-town bars.

Aprés: Whether you’re an expert or a beginner, it’s imperative to celebrate your on-snow accomplishments. For music, beer and nachos, don’t miss the legendary Mangy Moose, a fixture since 1967. The Moose has seen it all when it comes to après celebrations, so be aware it’s often very noisy and crowded. Other lively and more family friendly options include Tram Dock and Spur for delicious snacks and drinks, or the very relaxing Ascent Lounge in the Four Seasons for craft cocktails, hot chocolates, and games by the fire.

Dining: Jackson’s downtown is very walkable, and the café, bar and restaurant scene keeps pace with towns ten times its size. For breakfast and coffee, don’t miss Persephone, Picnic, and Cowboy Coffee. Need a burrito to last all day? Order from D.O.G. on the way to the Village. For great dinners and ambiance, the list is long, but local favorites are the Bistro (great for families), King Sushi, and Trio, or try Wild Sage in the Rusty Parrot Hotel for a romantic splurge. It can be hard to get reservations if the town is busy, so flexibility is crucial. At night, a visit to the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and its saddles for bar stools, as well the Silver Dollar Bar in the Wort Hotel is obligatory for experiencing Wyoming frontier history paired with lively ambiance.

For dining in the Village, Osteria and Teton Thai are beloved hotspots, and Corsa, in Caldera House, is a cozy, buzzy, relative newcomer. For a family dining adventure, check out Piste Bistro, which offers dinner service at the top of Bridger gondola at night.

There are plenty of spas and shops in town, but consider instead an only-in-the-Tetons winter wildlife watching tour or a visit to Yellowstone National Park instead. Ardent conservation efforts in the region for over a century have preserved the animals and wild habitats of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, and many guide services offer full and half-day wildlife watching experiences.

Another wildlife-watching option is a sleigh ride at the National Elk Refuge. They begin right next to town and only require about an hour and a half to two hours, and you might see elk, and possibly bison, native mule deer, coyotes, wolves and raptors on their winter range.

The local town hill is Snow King, Wyoming’s first ski area. It offers steep descents from the ridge down to town, and intermediate terrain on the backside for a great half-day of skiing. Snow King runs its lights into the evening, and one of the best ways to spend a night including skiing above the jewelbox of town lights.