Getty ImagesBruno Mars Let’s face it: cutting men’s hair isn’t always as easy at it looks. It takes time, practice and continuing education to become comfortable in the art of men’s grooming. Master Barber Greg Zorian, founder of the Gregory’s Barbershops in upstate New York, is a third generation barber—and is an expert in the fi eld of men’s grooming. First Chair asked Zorian, who developed the Masters of Barbering online educational program, his advice for beauty grads to become successful men’s groomers.
“You Play Like You Practice” This is a direct quote from my high school football coach and it is so true. Practice is everything. The best at anything in life are the best because they are never satisfi ed and continue to practice. Make sure to get extra repetitions on hair cuts or services you are the most uncomfortable doing when you are in school. If you are out of school, offer free services when you are not on the book or on the clock. Once you get these services down in practice you will be able to duplicate them on a paying client.
Don’t Cut Hair by Numbers When giving a clipper cut, it is much more professional to refer to the different attachments by measurement than by number. For example: Explaining the hair cut as a three-fi nger high ½” taper sounds more professional than, “you get a number 3 clipper cut.” When a client is not educated and asks for a “number 3” cut, it does not tell you how high he wants the taper or if he likes skin showing or complete scalp coverage. Additionally, attachments do not have a universal numbering system. A number 1 attachment may be the longest for one brand and the shortest for another. There are also attachments that just have the measurement listed on them without a number.
Scissor-over-Comb: Scissor-over-comb is the secret weapon in men’s hair cutting—it is the oldest and best technique. There was a time when the electric clipper did not exist and all cutting was done with different-sized combs, scissors and straight razors. Clients associate a higher level of skill with this technique, instead of just putting an attachment on a clipper and running a number 3 up the sides. This is a great way to show your clients you have a superior skill level and take a lot of pride in your hair cuts.
Getty ImagesDavid Beckham If You Don’t Make a Weight Line You Won’t Have to Blend it Out: This has to be the most debated topic in men’s hair cutting. When cutting any type of faded or graduated cut it is much easier to blend from longer to shorter. By cutting the hair in this manner you will never leave a weight line or hard line of demarcation that is very diffi cult and time consuming to blend out. Begin on the top and work down from the longest to shortest lengths. This works with a clipper and attachments or different-length combs with the scissor/clipper-over-comb cutting technique. Your effi ciency and quality of cuts will increase tremendously when cutting in this manner.